On more than one occasion, I felt that Tresor was easily the most futuristic space on Earth. Fuck all those fancy mirrored high rise buildings – down in the dungeon and outside in the dust: that’s where modernity was really being defined. Cristian Vogel
I was
reminded today of a club I visited the first time I was in Berlin in 1998 called
Tresor, which means safe in German. I was a fan of the record label, so after finding it's location in a guide book I decided to make Berlin my next destination.
I arrived on a Sunday, not knowing the club wasn't open until Wednesday. It gave me a good opportunity to see the city—I was only expecting to stay there for a day or two and move on. This is where I... I want to say fell in love with the city, but it wasn't like that. I was scared of it. The people weren't warm and inviting, the language was harsh, and in the former East Berlin where I was staying it was still a relatively rough place.
There was a lot of new development, especially in
Potsdamer Platz, where the area was under heavy construction. The scar of the Berlin was being rebuilt as the centre of the city. Behind the fences, I had impression of a future world. One that I would be long gone before being able to realize what the half-built buildings promised.
I had mentioned my second trip to the place I thought was called Hof in my post about my
last trip to Berlin. Turns out the place is actually called
Tacheles. That was where I spent my nights leading up the the Wednesday at Tresor. It was close to my hostel, it was like our local hangout. Hanging out in a bombed out WW2 era building, and in the sand behind. It was surreal, especially with everything we were doing there. That was my Berlin.

On the Wednesday I convinced a few other hostel mates to make the trip to Tresor. It turned out to be only a couple subway stops away. It was in the basement of a department store vault. The music was phenominal... there weren't many people who would play music like that in Toronto at the time. There was an upstairs, which was alright, but we spent some time in the garden in the back.
There was me the Canadian, one guy from some ivy league college, a Cuban from Miami, and this student from Mexico City. We had a couple drinks outside, watching the locals. They weren't all happy with eyes rolling in the back of their heads. There were no group hugs, no candy, no glow sticks. Nothing you'd associate with the culture here. You could tell they were fucked up on the same shit, but they reacted to it differently. Very cold, very reserved.

Things changed somewhat inside the vault. The music was dark, moody and very minimal. I cautiously ventured onto the dance floor behind the gates, into the tiny room with the DJ. The people were dancing completely differently than I had seen before. They were more deliberate, almost mechanical and asexual. I was used to seeing people dancing with stylized feeling and emotion, but here it was reversed. The style came first.
In minimal techno there is lots of room for the sounds to breathe. Each individual element of the track is forced to express so much more than if there were a wall of sound. It has to be well produced, otherwise every track would sound the same. The same bass drum, the same hi hat, the same riff. It's a music of nuance.
There would be one track at a low point or the beginning of the song. You would have just a bass drum kick repeating for a few bars. There would be subtle tweaks along the way, something else along there, but basically you're just hearing the kick. Then when each individual element of the track would kick in, like a hi hat on every off beat, there would be people in the crowd who would yelp or scream. I had never heard anything like that before... I always considered crowd interaction to be distracting or annoying. Something that you'd get with a rock concert. Here it made sense. These people were going apeshit over the music.
That's the closest I've come to understanding German—or at least Berlin's—culture. They may seem dark and uninviting, jaded and bruised. You just have to dig deeper to find the subtleties, because in the details is where you find all the emotion.